The Hidden Hot Spring Spa in Sano

Sano Natural Hot Spring Noborigumo - Yokosuka - (virtualombudsman.com)

Noborigumo (のぼり雲) is an inviting local onsen with open-air baths, sauna, and a pleasing facade. 

The water is pumped from 800 meters below ground level and flows out at a temperature of 32.5°C. From here it is re-heated to about 42-43°C for the baths—perhaps a little hotter than most onsen. The water itself is mineral rich and clear, although certain elements in the water color upon contact with air. 

The onsen building itself is conical with natural light pouring in from the top, creating a feeling of spaciousness. There is just one indoor bath—a rectangular tub where the water is hottest. 

Outside there are two baths, one with natural stone surrounding the tub, as well as a walk-in bath set at a much cooler temperature where visitors can stride through the water. 

There is also a standard sauna, mizu-buro, and low-temperature salt sauna.

Kannonzaki Park

Exploring Japan: Kannonzaki a quick trip from Yokosuka NB (stripes.com)

Kannonzaki is a cape situated at the east end of Miura Peninsula, blessed with various attractions including a lighthouse, museums, an interesting shrine, tasty restaurant and even a spa to relax. Above all, a one-day stroll through the cape will prove picturesque views of beautiful blue ocean and green mountains.

Today, most of the cape is designated as prefectural park. As it is very large, it may take you a whole day to walk through it. There is free parking on weekdays, and you can also get there via a trains or bus on the Keikyu Line, as well.

In addition to the mountains, Kannonzaki has several good-sized, beautiful beaches where you can enjoy a barbecue or take a dip in the sea during the summer.

Kannonzaki has a pair of famous ties - it is the place where both Gulliver and Godzilla made their first steps in Japan.

In Gulliver’s Travels, written by Jonathan Swift, Gulliver made his first step on the Land of Rising Sun at a port called “Xamoschi”. Today, the port is considered to be modeled by Kannonzaki. Based on this consideration, Yokosuka City and local tourist associations hold Gulliver-Kannonzaki Festa in November every year, and during the event, American sailors from Yokosuka Naval Base dress up as Gulliver and parade around the district.

In the first “Godzilla” movie, the monster landed at Kannonzaki, then headed toward Tokyo, just like Gulliver did. There was a large Godzilla-shaped waterfront slide in the beach, commemorating his landing about 40 years ago.

Since Kannonzaki was utilized as a citadel by former Imperial Army, you can find old military structures including batteries, brick-made magazines and tunnels along your stroll. Despite long stairs and slopes, they are well maintained, so you can enjoy safe and pleasant hike. Signs with maps are installed throughout the park ensuring you won’t get lost.

Atop one hill in the park, there are large grassy fields dotted with flower gardens, and children’s playground with long slides, climbing apparatus and double zip line, along with a wooden lodge for visitors.

Although you need to walk up hundreds of stairs for half an hour, it worth visiting the majestic white Kannonzaki Lighthouse on a peak in the park. It is known as the first Western-style lighthouse in Japan, and was built by French engineers in 1869. After being destroyed twice by earthquakes, the current version was rebuilt in 1925. The view from the observation deck is breathtaking. The distance between Kannonzaki and Futtsu, a city on the opposite bank of gulf, is only 3.5 miles, so you can see mountains and towns over the gulf.

Natsushima Shell Mound

Natsushima Shell Mound

The Natsushima Shell Mound (夏島貝塚, Natsushima Kaizuka) is an archaeological site in northeastern coastal Yokosuka.  It contains a ancient "Jōmon" era shell midden. It was designated a National Historic Site of Japan in 1972.  At that time, it was considered the oldest known shell midden in Japan.

During the early to middle Jōmon period (approximately 4000 to 2500 BC), sea levels were five to six meters higher than at present, and the ambient temperature was also 2 deg C higher.  During this period, the Kantō region was inhabited by the Jōmon people, many of whom lived in coastal settlements.  The middens associated with such settlements contain bone, botanical material, mollusk shells, sherds, lithics, and other artifacts and eco-facts associated with the now-vanished inhabitants, and these features, provide a useful source into the diets and habits of Jōmon society.  Most of these middens are found along the Pacific coast of Japan.

The Natsushima site is located on what was once an island in Tokyo Bay, but which is now surrounded by reclaimed land.  The midden is located at the eastern end of the former island, at an elevation of 50 meters above the present sea level.  It measures approximately 14 meters from east-to-west by 13 meters from north-to-south.  During archaeological excavations by Meiji University in 1950 and 1955 it was found to be clearly stratified into three layers, with a deposit of soil in between each layer.  Each of the strata had shards of Jōmon pottery, which greatly assisted in dating the mound, and radiocarbon dating of the lowest layer yielded a date of 9500 years ago, which created considerable academic interest.  Other artifacts in the midden included stone weapons and stone tools, bone weapons and tools, fishing hooks made from shell, and shell ring jewelry.  These artifacts are stored and exhibited at the Meiji University Museum.  The site is a 10-minute walk from the "Matsushima" bus stop on the Keikyu bus from Oppama Station on the Keikyū Main Line. 

Historic Kannonzaki Lighthouse

Yokosuka: A Day Trip for History Buffs | Tokyo Weekender

Kannonzaki Lighthouse in its original manifestation was the first lighthouse to be constructed in Japan. It was built under the supervision of French engineer François Léonce Verny in 1869, who also supervised the creation of the Yokosuka Naval Arsenal. 

The initial brick structure proved insufficient to withstand earthquakes, and both it and its initial replacement were devastated by earthquakes in 1922 and 1923 respectively.

The present structure dates from 1925 and boasts spectacular views of the surrounding scenery. The exhibition room goes into great detail concerning the history and logistics involved with illuminating the sea. Tours of the interior are also readily available. Japanese film history buffs should also note that the lighthouse was prominently featured in internationally underrated auteur Keisuke Kinoshita’s Times of Joy and Sorrow.

In addition to Kannonzaki, Verny oversaw the construction of four other lighthouses across what is now the Greater Tokyo Area. He also had other ambitious undertakings. Most visibly, the dry docks he built for usage by the Imperial Japanese Navy, now under American jurisdiction. His significant contribution to the modernization of Japan is remembered at Yokosuka’s Verny Park, which is filled with beautiful seasonal flowers and a bust of the man himself. There’s also a small museum detailing Verny’s life and accomplishments.

三笠商店街

There are several traditional shopping streets, or SHOTEN-GAI (商店街), which are located around Yokosuka City.  One old and famous SHOTEN-GAI is located only about a five-minute walk from Yokosuka U.S. Navy Base, and is called "MIKASA DORI" -- (MIKASA is the name of a famous Japanese battleship, which is preserved as a museum in a nearby park.)  MIKASA DORI is actually a long (180 meters) and narrow four-story building, with the first floor being a pedestrian-only shopping street.  When it was built, back in November 1959, it was considered an advanced and unique architectural structure.  There are around 70 retail businesses located inside MIKASA DORI, and the variety is amazing, with eateries, fish and vegetable markets, drug stores, 100-yen stores, barber, watch repair, internet café, cell phone shops, etc.  Some of the specialty stores have been in business continually since MIKASA DORI was built, and they add to the "retro" feel of the place.  Since the shops are lined-up long the street inside the building, customers are always protected from bad weather.  Of note, MIKASA DORI recently added free WIFI service, so customers can "stay connected."

   

 

Yokosuka and Jazz Music

During the post-World War II and U.S.-led Occupation years, modern jazz emerged in Japan as sort of a "new music of freedom" .... One of Japan's jazz birthplaces was Yokosuka, where Japanese musicians performed for (sometimes raucous) audiences of America sailors and GI's .... Today, this history is commemorated through statues and art located around the downtown harbor area...

 

    

Commodore Perry & Black Ships Display At YCCI

Some photos of the special display inside the entrance hall to Yokosuka Chamber of Commerce and Industry (YCCI) .... Of particular note is a large stone, received from the city government of Newport, Rhode  Island, and presented to YCCI in a 1988 ceremony by then-Commander of U.S. Naval Forces Japan, RADM James Cossey...

 

   

== Commodore Perry's Prophecy

"In the practical and mechanical arts, the Japaniese show great dexterity; and when the rudeness of their tools and their imperfect knowledge of machinery are considered, the perfection of their manual skill appears marvelous.  Their handicraftsmen are as expert as any in the world, and. with a freer development of the inventive powers of the people, the Japanese would not remain long behind the most successful manufacturing nations.  Their curiosity to learn the results of the material progress of other to their own uses, would soon, under a less exclusive policy of government, which isolates them from national communion raise them to a level with the most favored countries.  Once possessed of the acquisitions of the past and present of the civilized world. the Japanese would enter as powerful competitors in the race for mechanical success in the future."

(From official Trip Report/Narrative 1856)

Commodore Perry Monument During WW-II

 Photographs from Yokosuka's ペリー公園 (Commodore Perry Park) .... Located in the Kurihama district, right across from the beach where personnel from Perry's naval expedition landed in 1853 .... A large monument (erected in 1901) commemorates the historical event...  

Of note, for several years during World War II, due to Japanese nationalist sentiments, the monument was toppled....

More information here:

The Matthew C. Perry Memorial Park, Kurihama (Yokosuka), Japan, 2008 (baxleystamps.com)

Retracing Commodore Perry’s footprint in Japan | Stripes Okinawa

Yokosuka's Oldest Park

愛宕山公園  -- Atagoyama Park is the oldest park in Yokosuka City.  

Located in the historical Uraga District, the park was established in 1891. 

It was originally developed as a park to host a  monument commemorating Saburosuke Nakajima, who worked for the Uraga Magistrate's office and played an important role event s surrounding Commodore Perry and the so-called Black Ships' arrival off of Yokosuka in 1853.

A monument commemorating of the departure from Yokosuka of KANRIN-maru (which carried a Japanese diplomatic mission to U.S.) for a was built in 1960 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the conclusion of the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between Japan and the United States. Behind the monument are the names of crew members such as Captain Katsu Kaishu, Yukichi Fukuzawa, and John Manjiro and others.

Here is some more information on KANRIN MARU:

Discover Yokosuka 横須賀奥旨: The Shogun Navy's first sail and screw-driven steamship --- Kanrin Maru 咸臨丸 (deepyokosuka.blogspot.com)

Discover Yokosuka 横須賀奥旨: The Ordeal Of The Kanrin Maru (deepyokosuka.blogspot.com)

The scenery and panoramic view from the park is wonderful.

Seen From Space

Uraga and Yokosuka, Japan | 2010 | JAXA Earth Observation Research Center (EORC)

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Figure 1 is an image of the Miura Peninsula and its surroundings taken by ALOS (Daichi) on September 6, 2009. The Uraga channel, a gateway to Tokyo Bay between the Miura Peninsula (on the left) and the Bouso Peninsula (on the right), is visible in the center of the image. Over 500 ships, including cargo ships, container ships, and tankers, pass through the channel each day, making it one of the busiest sea routes in the world.

Uraga and Kurihama are famous in Japan for being the location where Commodore Perry’s fleet first landed. Uraga, Kurihama, and Yokosuka are located on the east side of the Miura Peninsula and face the Uraga channel. The Kan-nonzaki lighthouse, the first Western style lighthouse in Japan, was built at the eastern end of the Peninsula in 1868. Tokyo Bay Marine Traffic Center, located 250 meter from the lighthouse, provides traffic information to ships and controls them while they are in Tokyo Bay. Both facilities contribute to the navigational safety of ships in the Uraga channel.

Figure 2 is an enlarged image of Uraga and Kurihama on the east side of the Miura Peninsula.  Four ships of the U.S. East India Squadron, led by Commodore Perry, crossed the Atlantic, stoppingat Cape Town, Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Okinawa and the Ogasawara Islands, before arriving at Uraga Harbor on July 8, 1853. Perry’s arrival at Uraga surprised and confused Japan. A famous comic tanka (a style of Japanese poetry) was composed as “Awoken from the sleep of a peaceful quiet world by Jokisen tea, drinking only four cups of tea, one cannot sleep even at night,” which jokingly commemorates the landing (seebelow). The Tokugawa Shogunate ordered Perry to land at Kurihama, one cape south from Uraga, and he landed there on July 14, 1853. The Tokugawa Shogunate received the letter from the President of the United States and promised Perry to respond it next year.

Commodore Perry returned to Japan in February, 1854 and the Convention of Kanagawa was concluded. Perry’s arrival triggered the opening of Japan to the world and paved the way to the Meiji restoration. There are now a monument to the landing and a museum at Kurihama.

A comic tanka, “Awoken from sleep of a peaceful quiet world...”

“Awoken from the sleep of a peaceful quiet world by Jokisen tea, drinking only four cups of tea, one cannot sleep even at night.”

This famous comic “tanka” has two meanings through the use of Japanese homophones. “Jokisen” is the name of an excellent brand name and also means “steamships” in Japanese. The word “hai” means cup and is also used to count ships. The word “taihei” means “peaceful quiet world” and also means “Pacific Ocean.”Therefore, this “tanka” also has the meaning “only four steamships upset the Tokugawa regime.” In reality, the confusion caused by Perry’s fleet was a fiction. The Tokugawa Shogunate had already received word of Perry’s impending arrival through the Netherlands but the Japanese officials in the area were unable to prevent the common people from seeing the arrival of the ships which led to the confusion.

Perry’s Landing Monument

A retired midshipman from Perry’s fleet, Mr. Beardslee, later revisited Kurihama and was shocked to find that there was nothing to indicate that this was the spot of Perry’s landing. Through Beardslee’s work, a monument to commemorate Perry’s landing was constructed in 1901 by the Friends of America  Association. Hirobumi Ito, Japan’s first Prime Minister, wrote the words which were inscribed upon the monument.

Figure 3 shows Yokosuka and its surroundings. Uraga and Kurihama belong to Yokosuka city. Yokosuka faces Tokyo Bay in the east and Sagami Bay in the west. The image is of central Yokohama on Tokyo Bay.
With the help of France, the Tokugawa Shogunate constructed an ironworks at Yokosuka, a small fishing village at the time. The Yokosuka ironworks was transformed into anaval factory by the Meiji Government and became a leading military city in the world. The Mikasa Park is seen in the middle of the image. The battleship Mikasa was the Japanese flagship during the Russo-Japanese War. The battleship Mikasa isdisplayed at the Park and can be seen in the enlarged image. Saru-shima (Monkey Island) is seen to the east of the Mikasa Park. The Saru-shima is the only natural island in Tokyo Bay. A fortress was constructed on the island at the end of the Tokugawa Shogunate period and the remains can be visited by ferry from Mikasa Park. Saru-shima is a popular spot for swimming, barbecuing, and fishing.

Hakkeijima Sea Paradise amusement park is visible in the upper part of the image. Hakkeijima Sea Paradise is an artificial island belonging to Yokohama City.The headquarters of the Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology is located on reclaimed land below Hakkeijima. The research center has facilities such as a high-pressure test tank and a pier where marine research vessels are moored.

Saru-shima (Monkey Island)

Saru-shima was originally called “Toyo-shima” until the year 1253 when a holy Buddhist priestnamed Nichiren sailed from Chiba district to Kamakura.. His ship was damaged by a typhoon and almost sank. During the emergency, the priest chanted a prayer and a white monkey suddenly appeared and led him safely to the island. After this event, the island was called the Monkey Island. Ancient ruins have also been excavated on the island.

Yokosuka Bomber Jacket ... "Suka-Jan"

Japanese for "jacket" is: Jan-ba, also "jumper": Jan-pa  .... So, the "suka" from Yokosuka + "jan" from jan-pa, combined to become the name for the iconic jackets which are still sold today...

Link:

https://www.timeout.com/tokyo/shopping/souvenir-jacket-a-brief-history-and-where-to-shop-for-sukajan-in-tokyo

A jacket with deep roots in both Japanese and American culture, the suka-jan has made a stylish comeback in recent years, with modern versions being sported by everyone from Kanye West to Zayn Malik. But where did it originate?

Fashionistas can thank the American soldiers who were stationed in Yokosuka south of Tokyo after World War II.  They were the first ones to start embellishing their army wear with local symbols as a memento – or souvenir – of their time stationed in Japan.

From there, the trend continued and soon jackets made from leftover parachute silk were being embellished with stereotyped symbols of Japanese culture, from geishas and dragons to cherry blossoms, tigers and even the maps of military campaigns in Japan.

Come the ’60s, cultural revolution in Japan saw the suka-jan adopted by teenagers as an act of defiance against mainstream society.  Back then, the jacket was often seen as a symbol of rebellion – and its notoriety was secured when filmmakers started using suka-jan as the outfit of choice of screen gang members and the yakuza.

But those questionable associations are all but gone today and the jacket has been brought back to the mainstream – copied by everyone from Gucci and Saint Laurent to Zara and H&M.  For shoppers serious about investing in a quality souvenir jacket, it’s probably best to steer away from fast fashion copies and instead look into the genuine article.

Some of the original shops in Yokosuka still allow you to customize your jacket, from the fabric colors to picking your pattern and embroidery.  They don’t come cheap – a good suka-jan will set you back at least ¥13,000 – but this is one souvenir you’ll be showing off for years to come.

     

Miura Peninsula

Yokosuka City is situated in the central part of the Miura Peninsula (三浦半島 - Miura Hanto).  

The peninsula's name, Miura (三浦), means "three bays" and comes from the fact that there are ship harbors on its three: western, southern, and eastern, sides.  

There is archaeological evidence of people living in the forested hills and near the beaches on the Miura Peninsula during the stone ages, 25,000 years ago.  

Due to the abundant green scenery, picturesque ocean views, fresh fruit & vegetable farms, fish markets, etc., many people from Tokyo, which is only about an hour's drive away, visit the area on weekends.  

In addition to Yokosuka, the municipalities of Kamakura, Zushi, Hayama, and Miura are located on the peninsula.  

What really makes the Miura Peninsula experience so unique is that one can live in a place with much natural beauty, beach vibes, and rural charm, and at the same time, be only a short commute away from the large cosmopolitan cities of Tokyo and Yokohama.

Due to its strategic location near the entrance to Tokyo Bay, the Miura Peninsula has been the scene of many important historical events.

Geijutsu Geki-Jo

Yokosuka City hosts a world-class performance venue ... For opera or symphonies or other stage performances...

RADS2004Yokosuka (nagata.co.jp)

The Yokosuka arts theatre is in the complex institution called The Bay Side Square Yokosuka. 

It opened in February 1994, after decade of its conception. 

There is the Yokosuka art theater other than, office, a hotel, shops, gathering residences in this institution.

The Yokosuka arts theatre, with 1,806seats, is designed as opera house. It is a horseshoe in plan with four layers of high balconies. 

The small hall called “The Bay Side Pocket” is designed for multipurpose space, having capacity of 600seats, can be used as a flat level floor for a variety of performances. 

Yokosuka-City is at the center of Miura Peninsula and there is the distance of about 50 km from Tokyo.  The site for The Bay Side Square Yokosuka was the former site of the EM Club (Enlisted Men’s Club) which was a U.S. Navy personnel meeting place at one time. 

The plot was returned from U.S. in 1983. 

The EM club was the birthplace of  jazz music in Japan during the postwar years, as that music was performed in the EM club, and various concert were carried out. 

Such jazz performances were supporting the development of the music world of Japan.

Old Shioiri Station

This sign is located along the road, right outside of Keihin Kyuko electric railway company's Shioiri Station.

I don't know when the sign was erected, but it looks like it's been there for many years.

From 1930 through 1940, the name of the Shioiri Station was 軍港駅 -- GUNKO EKI .... Which means Naval Port Station.  The name came from the fact that it was located close to the big naval base used by Japan's Imperial Navy.

Getting back to the sign .... The kanji characters, from right to left, read something like as follows:

こころ  咲きます  みらい都市

KOKORO SAKI-MASU MIRAI TOSHI

   

City of the future where warm feelings bloom.

Of interest, the heart-shaped illustration/cartoon of Yokosuka shows various daily life scenes: buildings, businesses, houses, car traffic, greenery, etc. --- But no sign of U.S. or Japanese naval ships, which are a prominent and visible presence in the downtown-harbor area of eastern Yokosuka...

There was a time, for many decades after World War II, when Yokosuka, aspiring to be a "peace city", did not openly advertise or promote itself as a Navy Town .... That has changed in recent years, where the naval harbor/history and warships have become a tourism resource...        

    　    

A Couple Of Signs

This road-side sign, erected by the Sakamoto Neighborhood Association, urges local citizens to avoid littering, exchange daily/friendly greetings, and help build a warm/relaxed and pleasant town...    

This sign, erected by Yokosuka City Government, warns against "swoop-down" attacks by crows, which can become territorial and aggressive during mating season .... Crows also have been known to steal food from unwary picnickers... 

Some history of old Yokosuka -- Miura Clan

Brief history of Yokosuka at this link+

Yokosuka History, History of Yokosuka, Yokosuka City Information :: Traveltill.com

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The area around present-day Yokosuka city has been inhabited for thousands of years.

Archaeologists have found stone tools and shell middens from the Japanese Paleolithic period and ceramic shards from the Jomon and Kofun periods at numerous locations in the area.

During the Heian period, local warlord Muraoka Tamemichi established Kinugasa Castle in 1063.  He became the ancestor of the Miura clan, which subsequently dominated eastern Sagami Province for the next several hundred years. 

The Miura clan supported Minamoto no Yoritomo in the foundation of the Kamakura shogunate, but were later annihilated by Hojo Tokiyori in 1247. 

However, the family name was reassigned to a supporter of the Hojo clan, and the Miura continued to rule Miura Peninsula through the Muromachi period until their defeat at Arai Castle in 1518.

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During the Edo period, the Yokosuka area was controlled directly by the Tokugawa shogunate, but administered through various hatamoto. 

Due to its strategic location at the entrance to Tokyo Bay, the Shogunate established the post of Uraga Bugyo in 1720, and all shipping into the bay was required to stop for inspection.

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Crest of the Miura Clan

 

Kannonzaki Old Submarine Acoustic Detection Site

Former Imperial Japanese military sub hunting station in Tokyo Bay a witness to history - The Mainichi

A former Imperial Japanese military acoustic location station, a long disused and increasingly decrepit sentinel from the wartime years, still sits in Tokyo Bay's Uraga Channel near the Kannonzaki Lighthouse here.

The station, built in 1937 to detect submarines, is about 10 meters off the shore on the eastern tip of the Miura Peninsula. The closest land is managed by the ministries of defense and finance, adjacent to Kannonzaki Park. The concrete oval structure rises about 5 meters above the sea's surface. Many spots on its outer wall have crumbled under the steady toll of wind and waves, exposing rusting reinforcing steel.

It was breathtaking to see this relic of war soaked in the midsummer afternoon sun, framed by the blue sky and blue sea.

According to a history book compiled by the Yokosuka Municipal Government and published in 2012, the former Imperial Japanese armed forces began fortifying Tokyo Bay in the Meiji era (1868-1912), building artillery batteries at the bay's mouth along both the Miura Peninsula to the west and Cape Futtsu in Chiba Prefecture to the east. The military built the acoustic location station in 1937 to catch the sound of enemy submarines accessing the bay, but it never entirely fulfilled its function.

The Ministry of Finance, which inherited the station from the former military, says it has no plans to make the facility a public relic of war because of its aged condition and location in the sea.

But as a witness to history, the facility's condition -- deteriorating without repair or conservation work -- is proof of the fact that this place was at war until 76 years ago.