Thursday, November 5, 2026

The Geopolitics of 'Shogun' in a New Era

NOTE:  WILLIAM ADAMS, MIURA ANJIN, BLUE-EYED SAMURAI, WAS GIVEN A FIEF IN THE HEMI DISTRICT OF YOKOSUKA CITY...




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The Geopolitics of 'Shogun' in a New Era | Japan Forward

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"Shogun" is not just a slickly-made exotic historical drama. It tells a powerful story about Japan and the West that is to a significant degree based on fact.

The new Shogun miniseries streaming on Hulu, Disney and Star appears to be a tremendous critical and commercial success. It scored 99% on the Rotten Tomatoes review aggregator and attracted nine million viewers in the first six days of availability. I can testify to its popularity, having overheard several people discussing it in bars and trains in Europe and Japan.

The appeal is obvious. In the words of The Spectator magazine, there are "ruthless warlords, shifty minions, and sundry bandits, samurai, scheming Jesuit priests, lubricious geishas and outrageously deft assassins. If you're into…  swashbuckling action and eye-wateringly lavish recreations of early 17th-century Japan – and who isn't? – then this is definitely your cup of sake."

Yet "Shogun" is not just a slickly-made exotic historical drama. It tells a story about the relationship between Japan and the West that is particularly powerful because it is to a significant degree based on fact. 

Introducing the Characters

William Adams, the prototype for the fictional Richard Blackthorne, was a navigator who sailed to Japan after a hazardous trip around Cape Horne and across the Pacific on a Dutch ship. The first Briton to set foot in Japan, perhaps in East Asia, initially he was thrown into jail as a suspected pirate. But then he became an advisor to Ieyasu, the warlord who founded the Tokugawa shogunate. That is the same Tokugawa shogunate which, from 1603, was to last over two hundred and fifty years. 

Adams learned to speak Japanese and write the hiragana script. He was considered sufficiently valuable to be given the status of hatamoto ("flag bearer"). The status came with an estate and ninety peasant families to work it. Though not technically a samurai, he was allowed to bear two swords as samurai did. Altogether, he had four residences in different parts of Japan. 

By this stage, he was already a geopolitical actor. According to historian Frederik Cryns, Adams warned Ieyasu that "the Spanish always send missionaries first to convert a large number of the country's people to Christianity, and then they conspire with the Christians to conquer the country and make it the property of the King of Spain." Whether these words were influential is impossible to know. But Christianity was proscribed soon after and Adams was blamed for the oppression of Japanese Catholics.  

Four years after his death in 1620 the Spanish were banned from Japan, leaving his friends the non-proselytising Dutch as the sole trading link with the West for the next few centuries. Adams, who had sailed with Sir Francis Drake against the Spanish Armada, would have been delighted.

Adams' Life in Japan

After marrying a wealthy merchant's daughter and having two children, matching his family back in London, Adams grew less keen to return to his native land. When agents of the British East India Company arrived in Japan, they considered that he had "gone native," preferring the Japanese to his own countrymen. He certainly respected Japanese culture, stating in a letter to overseas friends that the Japanese were "of good nature, courteous beyond measure and valiant in war… They are governed in great civility. I mean not a land better governed in the world."

Adams died in Japan four years after the death of his benefactor Ieyasu. The people who inhabited the estate he had been gifted held memorial services in his honor for the next 260 years. But otherwise, in both Japan and Britain, he was forgotten. 

It was only after the Meiji Restoration of 1868 brought an influx of foreigners into Japan that the dilapidated tomb of Adams and his wife was discovered by a trader residing in nearby Yokohama. In 1887, The Duke of Connaught, son of Queen Victoria, contributed funds for its upkeep while on a visit – thereby kickstarting William Adams's new career as a symbol of Anglo-Japanese partnership.

Kick-starting the Legacy of William Adams

With the Anglo-Japanese alliance of 1902 and Japan's world-shaking military victory over Russia in 1905, Adams was the right man in the right place, even though he had been dead for three hundred years. In the 1980 book, Learning From SHOGUN (1980), Professor Henry D Smith of Columbia University notes how Adams was described by a contemporaneous speaker at the London Japan Society:

A good Briton, and very probably a great Briton; a man who never did aught in Japan to disgrace his country's flag; a man who, on the contrary, taught the Japanese much that was new and useful—a man who taught them how to build ships in the European way, and indeed may well be said to have founded that glorious Japanese Navy which has just given us again proof of its excellence. It is, perhaps, not too great a stretch of imagination to picture the spirit of Will Adams looking down from his grave on the Bay of Yokosuka, the Chatham of Japan, on the splendid battleships and cruisers that lie there flying the flag of the Rising Sun.

World Wars and the clash of empires ended Adams's role as an emblem of Anglo-Japanese cooperation. Meanwhile, both sides suffered severe diminution of status by the end of hostilities. Fittingly, Adams now had a much smaller task, helping the slow and delicate process of reconciliation. 

Adams in the Postwar Mirror

Festivals and small memorial events were held as early as 1946. British poet Edmund Blunden, six times a candidate for the Nobel Prize for literature, was in Japan after the war and wrote a poem to be inscribed on a newly erected monument to Adams in Ito. Addressed to the citizens of the small city one hundred miles from Tokyo where Adams built boats, it contains the following lines:

I know his home in England, and I know At last his home by the Pacific's flow And am most happy, thinking of that man, Who first united England and Japan

Blunden, who also composed Tokyo University's rugby song, was not to know that Adams would take on a much bigger role, one that was consonant with postwar geopolitical realities: uniting Japan not with England, but with America. And the medium would not be festivals, poetry, and memorial tablets. Instead, it would be the output of the enormous American entertainment industry, with its blockbuster novels, movie stars, and dominant TV networks capable, in the mid-1970s, of running a new, big-budget product, the miniseries.

Enter Clavell

Like Adams himself, James Clavell was the right man in the right place at the right time. Born into a British military family, he became a successful scriptwriter and director in Hollywood before turning to novel writing. That must have given him an instinctive understanding of character arcs and helped make his stories so filmable. He was also obsessed with East Asia and set five of his six best-sellers there. Shogun (1975) was by far the most successful.

The metanarrative of the novel is the journey from cultural conflict to mutual instruction and mutual attraction. Clavell had raw real-life experience of what it meant, having been a prisoner of the Japanese, like Adams. Unusually, but again like Adams, the eighteen-year-old Clavell came away from his spell in Singapore's notorious Changi jail with enhanced respect for the Japanese. "I just admire the Japanese," he explained years later. "It's possible to admire an enemy. The relationship of conqueror and conquered can be an intriguing one. It doesn't necessarily lead to hate."

The book, published in 1975, was a sensation, selling six million copies over the next five years. Professor Smith, writing in 1980, claimed that "the American consciousness of Japan has grown by a quantum leap because of this one book. In sheer quantity, Shogun has probably conveyed more information about Japan to more people than all the combined writings of scholars, journalists, and novelists since the Pacific War."

Enter the 1970s - and the Miniseries

And that was just months before the broadcast of the first "Shogun" miniseries starring Richard Chamberlain and Toshiro Mifune. In that pre-streaming era, if you wanted to watch it you had to sit down in front of the TV for five consecutive nights, adding up to twelve hours of viewing. That is exactly what people did. One-third of all American television sets tuned into it at least some of the time, giving NBC the highest weekly ratings in its history. 

Why? Clavell's story-telling brilliance was important but so was the timing. The 1970s were a miserable decade for the USA, starting with defeat in Vietnam. It continued with the Watergate scandal, stubbornly high inflation, and a deep bear market for stocks. Then it ended with the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan. 

Meanwhile, Japanese products – autos and all kinds of consumer electrical devices – were suddenly everywhere. In 1979 Japan scholar Ezra Vogel published Japan as Number One: Lessons for America (Harper Colophon, 1979). It was a book that set out in facts what Clavell had suggested in fiction – that there was much to learn from Japan.

As the Japanese economy boomed in the 1980s and trade frictions became increasingly antagonistic, Clavell's self-described "passionately pro-Japan" story faded in significance. Nonetheless, from a Cold War perspective having the world's second-largest economy as an ally was a huge benefit. Conversely, the end of the Cold War coupled with the collapse of Japan's disastrous bubble economy put Adams temporarily out of business. 

Sanada Brings a New Authenticity

Now we have what looks like a new Cold War, and serendipitously the Japanese economy has emerged from its long deflationary morass. Judging by the amount of overseas attention, Japan is back – and so is Richard Blackthorne, the fictional avatar of William Adams. 

The 2024 version of "Shogun" is much better than its predecessor, as it should be considering the budget of $250 million was treble the size. There is much more attention to the maneuvering of the warlords and less to Blackthorne's love life. 

The presence of veteran Japanese actor Hiroyuki Sanada among the show's producers as well as playing the main role must have raised the authenticity quotient. Whereas the film version of the 1980 miniseries was considered exploitative and unrealistic by Japanese audiences, the 2024 iteration has been well-received.

Clavell's Japanophilia is mirrored in a very contemporary way. Johnathan Van Tulleken, one of the directors of the show, explains how committed he was to avoid the "white savior" trope so common in Western dramas about Japan. "We are the savages, we are the barbarians," he says in a podcast. He places the Jesuits in dark interiors, eating greasy meat and letting dogs lick their hands, whereas the Japanese characters eat clean food in the open air.

Resonating in Today's Multipolar World

The show is an American product, but it feels half-Japanese. Geopolitically, this makes sense since the United States is much more dependent on Japan than ever before. Its status as the global superpower depends on its presence in Southeast and East Asia, an increasingly sophisticated economic area and home to billions. But in today's multipolar world, it can no longer go it alone. It needs strong allies that share the same interests and are not merely passive, as Japan was in the 1970s and 1980s. 

At the same time, Japan's dependence on the US has also never been greater. This mutual reliance is creating a binding relationship. No surprise then that there is talk of a second season of "Shogun." Presumably, it would take the story much further than the timeline of Clavell's book, which covered a mere year or so.

So William Adams is back in action. So far, he has an excellent track record, encouraging the removal of the Spaniards from Japan, cheering on the Japanese victory over Russia, and being on the winning side of the Cold War. His new mission could be the longest and riskiest yet.

In Admiral Togo’s wake: Meeting a military genius

In Admiral Togo’s wake: Meeting a military genius - Japan Today

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Harajuku is widely regarded as one of the centers of Tokyo’s fashionable youth culture with Takeshita-dori at its heart. As one strolls Takeshita-dori there is one intersection with a laneway where two crepe shops stand across the lane from each other and behind them a heavily wooded hillside beckons. Mount the steps toward the trees and the hustle and bustle of Takeshita-dori fades away. This is the side entrance to Togo Shrine, honoring Admiral Heihachiro Togo (1848-1934), hero of the Russo-Japanese War (1904-05).

The presence of this quiet, dignified shrine seems, at first glance, incongruous with its trendy surroundings. Yet it has managed to stay relevant and even gain popularity among the young demographic who frequent Harajuku. It seems a bit of a mystery, until one learns more about the activities of the shrine and about Admiral Togo himself.

Let’s start with the great man and return to the shrine shortly.

Togo, like many of the significant personalities of the Meiji Period (1868-1912), was born in Satsuma Domain (modern day Kagoshima Prefecture). He joined Japan’s newly formed Navy in 1866 and later went to the UK to study, graduating second in his class at the Royal Naval College.

After his return to Japan in 1878, Togo steadily rose through the ranks, receiving command of his first ship in 1883 and becoming commandant of the Naval War College in Tokyo in 1896. In 1899 he became Admiral of the Japanese fleet and in 1903 was appointed Commander in Chief of the Combined Fleet of the Imperial Japanese Navy, by this time consisting of over 100 vessels. All in all, a stellar career. Depictions of several scenes from Togo’s career are displayed around the cloisters of Togo Shrine.

Yet it is Togo’s achievements in the Russo-Japanese War for which he is best remembered. These, too, are depicted at Togo Shrine, but to really appreciate them, make a visit to Togo’s wartime flagship, the Mikasa, in Yokosuka, about an hour south of Tokyo on the western shores of Tokyo Bay.

Now known as “Memorial Ship MIKASA” and included in the designation of Yokosuka’s naval port as a Japan Heritage site, the Mikasa was built at the Vickers Shipyard in Barrow-in-Furness in the UK. Her keel was laid in 1899 and she was commissioned in 1902, making her the newest battleship in the Japanese fleet at the time of the Russo-Japanese War. Today she is the last known example of a British-built battleship.

Although the Russian fleet at the time had slightly superior force, Togo’s command of the Japanese Imperial Navy enabled it to defeat the Russians in each of three engagements: the Battle of the Yellow Sea (Aug 10, 1904), the Battle of Ulsan (Aug 14, 1904) and the Battle of the Japan Sea (aka the Battle of Tsushima; May 27-28, 1905). In this last engagement, the Russian fleet was effectively destroyed, as a result of which peace talks commenced.

After the war, the Mikasa had a further career before being decommissioned under the conditions of the Washington Naval Treaty of 1922. Under the treaty, Japan was permitted to keep the Mikasa as a memorial ship, provided that her hull was encased in concrete. Thus she was given a home in Yokosuka and opened as a museum in 1926. Admiral Togo and Emperor Hirohito (1901-1989), grandson of the emperor Togo served so well, were both present for the Mikasa’s opening.

Unfortunately, due to the shortage of war materiel during World War II, the Mikasa was stripped to her gunwales and recycled. During the post-war occupation, weaponry was banned in Japan with the result that the occupation forces removed most of what remained of the Mikasa. Restoration finally began in the late 1950s, largely by former sailors of the Japanese Imperial Navy volunteering their time, and she was re-opened as a museum in 1961.

Visitors can wander the Mikasa’s decks to admire her guns and even the bridge. A helpful brochure lays out a short (30-minute) and long (60-minute) self-guided course. There are bilingual signboards at various locations that provide explanations.

Below decks, the aft section of the ship has been converted to museum displays about the functioning of the Mikasa and especially her role in the Battle of the Japan Sea, when Admiral Togo ordered a “cross the T” maneuver that allowed his ships to fire all their guns at once on the enemy’s fleet. The success of the strategy earned Togo the monicker “the Nelson of the East”. Indeed, the admiral once wrote in his diary that he believed himself to be the reincarnation of Horatio Nelson, the British admiral who defeated Napoleon’s fleet at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.

Virtual reality terminals allow visitors to put themselves in the middle of the battle and experience the heavy fire and damage the two enemies inflicted on each other, as well as other aspects of shipboard life.

In the forward section, Togo’s cabins as well as officer’s quarters, mess hall, and even a galley, have been restored to their appearance a century ago. While his bunk may have been a bit cramped, the admiral otherwise had fairly comfortable accommodation.

Togo finished his public service career in Tokyo, including overseeing the education of then-Crown Prince Hirohito from 1914 to 1921. He made his home in Sanbancho, not far from Ichigaya Station. This site was originally considered for the location of Togo Shrine, but then a larger piece of land in Harajuku became available and its size and proximity to Meiji Shrine made it seem more suitable. The Sanbancho site is now a public park known as Admiral Togo Memorial Park, largely a children’s playground with a new community hall currently under construction.

This brings us back to Harajuku’s Togo Shrine. The shrine was established in 1940 and the current buildings date to 1964. Togo himself apparently had no desire to be enshrined, but some say the shrine was established due to a perceived need for a shrine to a Navy hero, to counterbalance Akasaka's Nogi Shrine, where an Army hero was enshrined. Could it be because of its proximity to Takeshita-dori?

At the shrine, Togo is regarded as a god of sincerity, victory, fortune and relationships. Perhaps because all of these things could be said to add up to marriage, Togo Shrine is a popular wedding venue, too, with traditional weddings held in the main shrine while receptions take place in a modern facility next door, overlooking a pretty little pond and garden.

The shrine is also home to a separate small shrine to the “god of the sea” as well as a small museum of Togo memorabilia, such as his dress uniform and samples of his calligraphy

Stopping by to honor Togo when in the Harajuku neighborhood now makes a bit more sense, doesn’t it? Better yet, make the trip to Yokosuka to see the splendidly restored battleship that Togo commanded to victory for Japan.

Japan’s naval past and present converge in Kanagawa

Japan’s naval past and present converge in Kanagawa - Japan Today

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Located on the western coast of Tokyo Bay, 80 minutes by train from Tokyo station, Yokosuka is a hotbed of naval history. It was here that Commodore Matthew C Perry initiated the opening of the country in the 1850s, and today the city is home to a major naval facility used by the United States and Japan.

The main attraction is Mikasa Naval Park, a 20-minute stroll from Yokosuka station. The Mikasa was Admiral Togo’s flagship in the Russo-Japanese war of 1904-1905, but it sank in Sasebo harbor in Kyushu shortly afterwards, taking over 300 crewmen with it. Successfully salvaged after several attempts, the ship was put back into service until 1921, and was later given a permanent home at Yokosuka. In the postwar years, it fell into a ruinous state of decay, but was restored in the late ’50s — with generous financial support from the Americans.

Today, it offers a glimpse of what life would have been like for sailors a century ago, and houses a museum containing models and displays about the Japanese Navy. Most of the information is provided in English, and you could easily spend an hour boning up on your naval history, or just taking in the view of Tokyo Bay while admiring the enormous guns on the deck.

Every hour, a boat leaves from Mikasa Pier for Sarushima (literally, Monkey Island), a couple of kilometers offshore. This is the only natural island in Tokyo Bay, and though you won’t find any actual monkeys, it’s home to a wide diversity of plants and wildlife. Sarushima (inset) has played a strategically important role in Japan’s defense in the past, and ruins from the Jomon and Yayoi periods still remain, along with fortifications from the Edo, Meiji and Showa eras. Perry even attempted to name the place after himself, but the moniker never really caught on.

Today, Yokosuka City has turned Sarushima into an open-air “eco museum,” which has made it a popular day trip destination for history buffs, beachgoers and fishermen. The island is also frequented by tokusatsu fans, who know it as the location of Shocker’s secret base in Kamen Rider, while during the summer its modest sand beach is packed with swimmers and sunbathers.

If you aren’t tempted back to shore by the Yokosuka specialties of "kaigun" (navy) curry and U.S.-style Yokosuka burgers, Sarushima is an ideal place for a beach BBQ. Bring your own food and you can rent or buy anything else you need on the island, including grills, chairs, parasols, tableware and drinks—though be warned that the prices are a little steep. Enjoy your meal on the beach or at tables and chairs on the wooden deck overlooking the bay.

After lunch, it’s time to go for a wander. Get a map at the Visitor’s Center or follow the signs dotted around the area. Most information is in Japanese, and you won’t find much English on the explanatory signs at historical sites, but exploring the old fortresses and tunnels is still great fun. The majority of the trails are paved, and the whole island is easily covered in an hour — assuming you don’t dawdle too long admiring the ocean views. Finish the day off with a bottle of the locally produced Sarushima beer, and be sure not to miss the last ferry back to Yokosuka at 5 p.m.

Sunday, October 18, 2026

Yokosuka's West Coast -- Akiya and Sajima

During the Edo period, Akiya (then Akiya Village) in Yokosuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture, was a territory directly controlled by the shogunate (tenryo), and was a peaceful village known for its beautiful nature and spectacular views of Sagami Bay, as well as being a transportation and transit point on the west coast.

Key Characteristics of Akiya in the Edo Period

== Directly controlled territory of the shogunate (Tenryo)

• It remained a directly controlled territory of the shogunate (under the rule of a local magistrate, etc.) throughout the Edo period.

• According to records such as the "Genroku Yakucho" and "Tenpo Kocho," the village's (rice) yield was approximately 350-360 koku.

== A scenic spot depicted in Ukiyo-e prints (Tateishi)

• The giant rock "Tateishi of Akiya," jutting out into the coast, was a famous landmark since ancient times.

• Utagawa Hiroshige (Ando Hiroshige), an Edo period Ukiyo-e artist, depicted the magnificent view of Mount Fuji beyond Tateishi in works such as "Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji" and "Akiya Village in Miura, Sagami Province." Traces of this can now be seen in Yokosuka City tourist information and at Akiya Tateishi Park.

== A village serving as a transportation hub and relay point on the west coast

• The "Nishi-Uraga Road (Western Misaki Road)," which runs along the west coast of the Miura Peninsula, lies in the village, and it was located along this road used by people and goods.

== Local shrines and temples

• The "Akiya Shinmei Shrine (Akiya Shrine)," said to have been founded at the end of the Kamakura period (Genkō 1, 1331), was cherished as the guardian shrine of the former Akiya village and continues to watch over the area to this day. Temples in the area included Myōonji Temple of the Nichiren sect and Shōgyōin Temple of the Jōdo sect.

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During the Edo period, Sajima in Yokosuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture, was a quiet fishing village facing Koajiro Bay and Sagami Bay.

Its main characteristics at the time were as follows:

• Abundant fishing grounds: Coastal fishing for sardines, shrimp, and abalone flourished in the rich fishing grounds of Sagami Bay. The seafood caught was supplied to Edo's markets (sakanaba), taking advantage of its proximity to Edo.

• Scenic beauty: The coast of Sajima, including Tenjin Island, was known for its beautiful views of Mount Fuji and "Tateishi" (Akiya), and was a scenic area popular with travelers and literati, including the Edo-period ukiyo-e artist Utagawa Hiroshige.

• A village where agriculture and fishing coexisted: Like many villages on the Miura Peninsula, a simple, rural lifestyle was lived there, combining small amounts of farming (field crops) with fishing.

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The west coast of Yokosuka City, facing Sagami Bay (Akiya and Arasaki districts), is known for its natural shorelines, scenic fishing villages, and sweeping views of Mount Fuji.

Key Highlights

• Tateishi Park & Standing Rock (Tateishi): Features a 40-foot-tall rock formation with pine trees rising straight out of the water. This exact view was famously painted by the Edo-period ukiyo-e artist Ando Hiroshige. Low tide lets visitors walk right up to the rock.

• Arasaki Park: Offers a rugged coastline of dark rock formations, white mudstone cliffs, tidal caves, and a scenic walking path.

• Sunset & Mount Fuji Vistas: Because it faces west toward Sagami Bay, the coast is a prime spot for watching the sun set directly behind the silhouette of Mount Fuji and the Izu Peninsula.

• Natural vs. Urban Contrast: Unlike the heavily urbanized, industrial east side of Yokosuka facing Tokyo Bay (home to the naval port and US base), the west coast has a quiet, rural, and slow-paced character backed by Mount Ogusu.

• Proximity to Hayama: It borders the upscale coastal town of Hayama just to the north, giving the surrounding hills and roads a relaxed, resort-like atmosphere.


























Wednesday, October 14, 2026

History of Yasuura District

The Yasuura district of Yokosuka City has a deep historical connection to the Great Kanto Earthquake and the formation of its "Meishuyagai" (sake shop district).


The Origins of Yasuura and the Great Kanto Earthquake


• Land's Origin: In 1922 (Taisho 11), the Yasuda Hozensha, a subsidiary of the former Yasuda zaibatsu (financial conglomerate), reclaimed land from Toda Beach and named it "Yasuura-cho," combining "Yasu" from Yasuda and "ura" from Kaigan (coast).


• The Great Kanto Earthquake and Barracks: Following the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 (Taisho 12), approximately 2,000 evacuees moved to city-owned barracks built in Yasuura-cho.


• Establishment of Rice, Miso, and Sake Shops: With the rapid increase in refugees and migrants, everyday shops such as rice shops, miso shops, oil shops, sake shops, and general stores began to appear.


Transformation into a "Sake Bar District"


• Relocation and Consolidation After the Earthquake: As part of the post-earthquake reconstruction plan, "sake bars" (establishments serving alcohol and employing prostitutes) that had been scattered throughout Yokosuka City were forcibly and compulsorily gathered in a corner of Yasura.


• Development and Vibrancy: With the provision of public funds, the area transformed into an entertainment district and geisha area, with approximately 88 shack-like sake bars (later said to have reached 150 cafes and other establishments at its peak) lining the streets, mainly in 3-chome.


• Entertainment District of a Military City: The area was bustling with military personnel from the Yokosuka Naval District and Naval Arsenal, as well as fishermen from Nagaura Port.


• Post-War and Present: After the war, it retained its remnants as a red-light district (former red-light district) until around 1958, but now most of it has been transformed into a quiet residential area or reclaimed land for "Heisei-cho."


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Yasura (present-day Yasura-cho) in Yokosuka City has a history as one of Yokosuka's three major red-light districts (brothels/unlicensed prostitution areas), alongside Kashiwagida and Minagasaku.


History and Transformation of Yasura


Origins (Taisho Era):


• It began in the Taisho era, forming near Yasura Fishing Port (on reclaimed land by Yasuda Hozensha, etc.).


Pre-war Golden Age (Around 1937):


• With the wartime boom following the Manchurian Incident and the development of Yokosuka as a military city, the area rapidly expanded, catering to naval personnel and laborers. It is said to have had approximately 80 establishments and over 300 women.


Post-war Era of the Allied Powers:


• After the end of the war, with the arrival of GHQ, establishments such as "Yasura House" by the Special Comfort Facilities Association (RAA) were set up, and it reached its peak as one of Yokosuka's largest red-light districts, frequented by American soldiers and dockworkers. Records indicate that there were approximately 150 establishments and around 400 prostitutes during a period after the war (around 1955).


The Prostitution Prevention Law and its Aftermath:


• Although it officially disappeared with the enforcement of the Prostitution Prevention Law in 1958, remnants of the area, including so-called "blue-light districts" and unlicensed brothels, and café architecture, remained until the Heisei period (around the 2000s).


Current Situation:


• The nearest station, "Yasura Station" on the Keikyu Line, was renamed "Kenritsu Daigaku Station" (Prefectural University Station) at the request of local residents. Currently, Kanagawa Prefectural University of Health and Welfare and apartment buildings have been constructed in the surrounding area, transforming it into a residential area with some remnants of the past, such as tiled café architecture and retro public bathhouses (Hinode-yu).


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FOOTNOTE/ADDENDUM:


神奈川・横須賀「ドブ板通り裏と安浦」:米海軍の喧騒から一歩入った旧赤線特飲街の静寂 | Living The Single Life


Kanagawa, Yokosuka: "Dobita-dori Ura and Yasuura" - The tranquility of a former red-light district, a step away from the hustle and bustle of the U.S. Navy.


Yokosuka City in Kanagawa Prefecture is a naval port city that controls the throat of Tokyo Bay.


For many people today, this city appears as a mosaic of extremely catchy tourist attractions.  There are the cruise ships of the "YOKOSUKA Naval Port Tour" lined up with Japanese and American warships, "Dobuita Street" with its heavy hip-hop music and English signs, and the "Yokosuka Navy Burger" and "Yokosuka Navy Curry" that draw long lines of tourists.  Furthermore, in recent years, it has become widely recognized as the setting and pilgrimage site for acclaimed anime with naval and maritime themes, such as "Arpeggio of Blue Steel" and "High School Fleet," establishing itself as a vibrant pop culture hub that attracts young fans on pilgrimages.


Biting into a giant hamburger filled with coarsely ground meat, gazing at the gates of a U.S. military base, and taking commemorative photos next to anime collaboration panels—it's undeniably a perfect light weekend day trip.


However, if you think you've truly understood Yokosuka by only considering this commercialized, neatly packaged "American culture" and "subculture," you've completely missed the profound and essential burden this city has carried.


Just beneath the barbed wire fence surrounding the U.S. Navy base, I slipped away from the hustle and bustle of Dobuita Street into a narrow alley barely wide enough for one person, and from there headed southeast to the site of the former red-light district and entertainment district in Yasuura.  There, a heavy, cold layer of history has settled, where Japan and America clashed nakedly at the boundary between military and war, desire and life, and were forced to coexist until they were worn down.


— From a late Edo period ironworks to a US naval base: The framework of an artificial city that has breathed life into the military.


The DNA of the city of Yokosuka was designed from the very beginning as a "military" entity.


Starting with the "Yokosuka Ironworks (shipyard)" built by Oguri Tadamasa, the Edo Shogunate's Commissioner of Finance, and the French engineer Verny, it rapidly expanded after the Meiji Restoration as the heart of the Imperial Japanese Navy, the "Yokosuka Naval District."  Numerous Combined Fleet vessels, including the battleship Mutsu, were constructed there, and the entire city functioned as a fortress of national military secrets and defense.


Then came the defeat in August 1945.  The Imperial Japanese Navy base was handed over to the US military and reorganized as the vast US Navy Yokosuka Base.


Choosing to survive as a base town, Yokosuka was thoroughly Americanized down to the last detail.  Military currency (B yen) and dollars circulated throughout the city, signs were repainted in the alphabet, and jazz and rock and roll spewed from bars night after night.


The origin of American food that captures the stomach: 


Yokosuka's Navy Burgers are not just a tourist attraction.  They became deeply rooted in the city as an "energy refueling device for soldiers," faithfully recreating a traditional U.S. Navy recipe to instantly satisfy the stomachs of the burly American soldiers who flooded the port when ships docked.


The multi-layered nature of Yokosuka as a mecca for pop culture: 


Modern content such as the memorial ship Mikasa and submarine I-401 in "Arpegio of Blue Steel -Ars Nova-," and the Yokosuka Girls' Marine High School in "High School Fleet," choose this city as their setting not merely because of its beautiful scenery, but because the city's "realism and gravitas as a genuine military port" are essential background elements.


However, the presence of troops is not simply a matter of well-organized warship parades and the aroma of delicious meat.  Cities had to prepare a "huge nighttime receptacle" behind the scenes to prevent the immense energy of young soldiers from erupting into peaceful residential areas.


— The back alleys of Dobuita Street: Just 3 meters away from the American excitement.


Dobuita Street (Hon-cho Shopping Arcade) leads from Keikyu Shioiri Station to the US military base gate.


Named after the thick iron plates supplied by the Navy that were laid over the ditch that once flowed down the middle of the street, this street is now the main thoroughfare for Yokosuka tourism.  It's lined with specialty shops selling sukajan jackets, military surplus stores, Navy Burger restaurants, and shot bars catering to American soldiers.  At night, US military personnel and Japanese customers mingle, creating a boisterous and raucous atmosphere.


However, just behind this American frenzy lies a stark contrast.


Between the flashy neon signs of the main street, numerous dark alleys, barely wide enough for one adult to squeeze through, are carved out.  The moment you slip into one of these narrow passages, the English shouts and the heavy bass of club music behind you rapidly fade away, as if blocked by a thick soundproof wall.


Showa-era shacks clinging to the cliffs of the valley: On the steep slopes of the "yato" (hidden hills & valleys) where the rugged mountains unique to Yokosuka meet the sea, old wooden and mortar houses and rusty corrugated iron roofs cling to the walls in a layered fashion.


Steep stairs and the breath of life: 


Narrow stone steps that leave you breathless lead up the mountain, and above, clotheslines that seem to be the epitome of everyday life jut out.  Completely cut off from the exotic atmosphere of the outside world, a gritty Showa-era Japanese living space remains intact.


A quiet, old-fashioned snack bar district: 


In contrast to the American bars on the main street, small counter-only bars run by elderly shopkeepers who have witnessed the ups and downs of catering to American soldiers in this town for many years lie dormant.


If the main street is "a theater of dollars, English, and the military," then the back alleys are "air raid shelters for downtown settlements that have weathered the storms for generations."  The shadow of America and the indigenousness of Japan coexist back to back.


— Yasuura Red-Light District Ruins:  Memories of the "former red-light district" formed on the tidal flats along the coast.


If you take the Keikyu Line from Hon-Cho, where Dobuita Street is located, and travel southeast to Kenritsu Daigaku Station (formerly Keihin Yasuura Station), the scenery changes dramatically.  What you find there is the site of what was once known as "Yasuura Special Drinking District," a (pre- and) post-war red-light district.


Yasuura holds special significance in the history of Yokosuka's entertainment districts.


After the war, with the arrival of GHQ, the Japanese government and local authorities, fearing sexual crimes and the spread of sexually transmitted diseases by American soldiers, concentrated special drinking establishments in Yasuura, a reclaimed land area along the coast a certain distance from the base.  Until the Prostitution Prevention Law was fully implemented in 1958, hundreds of women were gathered here, forming a nightlife district catering to American soldiers and Japanese laborers.


Today, Yasuura appears unremarkable during the day, a quiet residential area with few people.  However, a careful observation of the alleys reveals the "architectural genes" left behind by the former red-light district.


Surviving café architecture: 


Clearly different from ordinary houses, with its curved facade, vibrant mosaic tiles around the entrance and on the columns, and mysterious stained-glass-like skylights.  The original building, spared from demolition, stands quietly, its sign removed.


Overly orderly grid-like alleys: 


Not a spontaneously formed settlement, but a grid-like street layout deliberately planned with a clear intention.  It ensures visibility and gives a sense of control, suggesting it was once under the management of the police or military police.


The vanished coastline and the lingering atmosphere: 


This place, once overlooking the sea and directly swirling with sea breezes, has been inlanded by further offshore land reclamation.  Deprived of the sea and the heat of its entertainment district, the city is left with a unique, inorganic sense of desolation, like the scars of a city that have dried up.


The place where desire and foreign currency once swirled and the lives of countless men and women intersected is now completely cooled down, disguised as just an "ordinary residential area."  However, each crack in those walls and tiles undeniably bears the shadow of the postwar history that the naval port has been burdened with.


— The reality of a naval port lies beneath the facade of a trendy tourist city.


Enjoying a delicious Navy Burger, being overwhelmed by the state-of-the-art Aegis destroyers on a harbor cruise, and tucking away clear files from "Arpeggio of Blue Steel" and "High School Fleet"—these are undoubtedly the charms that Yokosuka should be proud of, the legitimate light the city has acquired to survive the times.


However, the stronger that light, the more we must not ignore the shadow that falls beneath the city's surface.


The exotic heat that hangs in the air in front of the U.S. military base gates, and the Showa-era silence that sinks into the back alleys of Dobuita Street.


And the chilling memory of the red-light district, emanating from the tiles of the café buildings remaining in Yasuura along the coast.


The full picture of Yokosuka, a city that has been tossed about by America, embraced the military, swallowed up pleasure and decadence, yet still managed to survive with resilience.  To stand on the boundary between its front and back, light and shadow, is the most robust attitude required of anyone walking this city.