Cinnamon

Looking for cinnamon rolls on “Japan’s closest street to America”【Taste test】 | SoraNews24 -Japan News-

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Nothing, But Sugar's name doesn’t really check out, but do their desserts pass the test?

As a team of dedicated wordsmiths and vocabu-liers, we here at SoraNews24 believe that the proper use of language is an important responsibility. So ordinarily we might cluck our tongues, gnash our teeth, and shoryuken the ceiling at the name of Nothing, But Sugar, a shop we visited in the town of Yokosuka, Kanagawa Prefecture. Not only does that comma have no business being there, Nothing, But Sugar actually has more than just sugar on offer.

However, we’re not only sticklers when it comes to language, but also sweets fans with a ravenous hunger for desserts, and so we’ll give Nothing, But Sugar a pass on its linguistic oddities, since its store is filled with cinnamon rolls.

A little geographic background: Yokosuka was one of east Japan’s first major ports, and is also the site of a large U.S. Navy base. That makes the town a bit of a cultural melting pot, especially on Dobuitadori, or Dobuita Street, which is lined with shops selling Americana and vintage U.S. fashions, as well as Yokosuka’s representative apparel, the sukajan (a style of embroidered silk baseball/bomber jacket), as well as hamburger joints and bars with a classic American aesthetic. Because of that, Dobuita is sometimes called “Japan’s closest street to America,” and as of 2021, it’s also home to Nothing But Sugar, a shop specializing in American sweets.

Originally, Nothing But Sugar sold muffins, pudding, and cinnamon rolls. These days, though, they’re strictly a cinnamon roll specialty shop, though they plan on brining the pudding back soon, which is perhaps why they haven’t just changed their name to Nothing But Cinnamon Rolls. With cinnamon rolls being much harder to find in Japan than pudding, though, we weren’t complaining about the current focused specialization, especially since there were a few different cinnamon roll variations in the display case when we walked in.

Rather than waste any time pretending we were going to limit ourselves to just one, we quickly settled on a three-pack of regular-size cinnamon rolls for 2,660 yen (US$17/50). We should note that Nothing But Sugar seems to be using the American standard of what “regular-size” is, which makes them quite big for desserts in Japan (again, this is not a complaint). They also have small-size muffins for 480 yen, in case your appetite isn’t quite as big as ours.

Back at the SoraNews24 taste-testing center, we could have just started scarfing down, but we managed to control those urges just long enough to pop the cinnamon roll in the microwave for a minute, and as mouthwatering as it looked before being warmed up…

…it looked 10 times more so afterwards!

As enticing as this melty cascade of cream cheese frosting was to look at, though, we couldn’t help but notice our cinnamon roll didn’t have much of a cinnamon-y aroma, either before or after its stint in the microwave. However, when we sliced off a piece to get some cross-section photos and keep our fingers from getting covered in frosting, it was like we’d cracked open a safe filled with olfactory treasures, as amazing cinnamon smells swiftly emanated from the roll’s interior layers.

Taking a bite, we found the texture pretty much perfect, softer and fluffier than a sice of bread or muffin, yet firmer and more satisfying than flimsy sponge cake. The flavor was excellent as well, unabashedly sweet, with the whole grain flour and cane sugar making the dough delicious and the generous sprinkling of cinnamon sugar on top only adding to the appeal.

We’d also picked out a blueberry cinnamon roll, which feels especially unique in Japan, where blueberries don’t pop up as often in cereals, pastries, and the like as they do in the U.S.

Finally, our third selection was a walnut cinnamon roll.

Not only are there walnuts mixed in with the frosting, there are chunks of them inside the cinnamon roll too, giving it some extra crunchy complexity as you chew.

So in the end, Nothing, But Sugar went three for three in our taste test, so they can call themselves whatever they like, and we’ll still love them.

Shop information

Nothing, But Sugar / ナッシングバットシュガー

Address: Kanagawa-ken, Yokosuka-shi, Honcho 2-1

神奈川県横須賀市本町2丁目1

Open 11 a.m.-6 p.m.

Kicona

Pictured below is the huge KICONA pachinko & pachi-slot building .... Built in 1998 and located, with an ocean view, on Yokosuka's Kaigan Dori (Beach Boulevard) across from Umi-Kaze Park, KICONA Pachinko Parlor was a well-recognized local landmark for 26 years .... But it was shut down/closed on 29 September 2024...   

Mind Rock Award

Can Rock Change Yokosuka? Bring On the Music! | JAPAN Forward

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== Can Rock Change Yokosuka? Bring On the Music!

-- Yokosuka, a city known for its military bases, is out to revitalize. So, it held a band contest, turning on the rock music and bringing a community together.

(September 21, 2024)

Rock isn't just a music genre — it's a way of life! The MIND・ROCK・AWARD 2024, Japan's largest band contest, took place on September 7-8 in Yokosuka, Kanagawa Prefecture. 

From 203 bands and artists nationwide, from Hokkaido to Okinawa, 17 were selected to perform in the final showdown. The winning band will be named the Yokosuka Rock 'n' Roll Ambassador and will headline a live show at the Yokosuka Arts Theatre.

Yokosuka, a city deeply influenced by American culture due to its United States military base, is on a mission to become a "City of Music, Sports, and Entertainment." 

Now in its second year, the contest specifically seeks bands and artists who embody the spirit of "living with a rock mindset." To qualify, at least one member of the group has to be 40 years or older. That showcases how the passion for rock transcends age.

-- Using Rock to Transform a Town

The venue came alive with the booming sound of drums and the crowd's excitement. Among the performers was a female musician who captivated the audience with her raw, solo guitar performance and powerful vocals.

After the contest, a surprise performance by Mayor Katsuaki Kamiji's band added to the excitement. The mayor, a former musician, sang and danced on stage, earning cheers and applause from the audience.

Takatomo Nozawa, a judge known for producing SMAP and other top Japanese idols, remarked on the event. "It's rare to see so many bands participate in a contest organized by a local government," he said. "Continuously holding this event will have a greater impact."

Mayor Kamiji commented, "At first, there was criticism about why a local government would promote rock music. But music is just a tool. I want to use rock to transform this town."

The event showcased the community's unique ties to American culture, fitting for a town with a US military base. 

19th Century Yokosuka Iron Works (Shipyard)

The Yokosuka Ironworks, although named an ironworks, was primarily a shipbuilding and ship repair facility, and was started in 1865 and renamed the Yokosuka Shipyard in 1871. After the opening of the country to the outside world, Japan needed a facility near Edo (Tokyo) that could repair large ships. After studying the state of technology around the world, the Edo shogunate commissioned the construction of a shipyard to France, and the location was decided to be Yokosuka. The French, who were entrusted with the construction, called the Yokosuka Ironworks “Arsenal d'Iokosuka”.

The Yokosuka Ironworks was positioned as a base for transferring Western technology to Japan and strengthening its industrial capabilities. In addition to ships, the Yokosuka Works produced machinery for government-owned factories in various regions, such as the Tomioka Silk Mill and Ikuno Mine, and greatly supported the modernization of Japan. The architecture of the Tomioka Silk Mill, a World Heritage Site, was also designed by the Yokosuka Works.

Kannonzaki Nature Museum

Kannonzaki Park faces Tokyo Bay and includes beach and rocky tide pool areas, as well as hills covered with lush green forests and hiking trails.  Situated within the park is a small and unique facility called 観音崎自然博物館 (Kannonzaki Shizen Hakubutsu-kan), which means "Kannonzaki Nature Museum".  It was established in 1953 as a museum and ocean research facility.  The sea located offshore from the museum is called the "Tokyo Bay Catchment Area" where the runoff waters from the surrounding hills and streams mix with the incoming ocean water flowing from the Kuroshio Current (黒潮).  The result is an area very rich in biodiversity.  The exhibits in the museum are based on the theme of “real nature and ecology” in the Tokyo Bay Catchment Area and the Miura Peninsula, and include seaweed, seasonal flowers, plants, trees, shore creatures, insects, amphibians, and reptiles.  Visitors can not only see the creatures and their behavior, but also smell and touch them, using all of their senses to experience real nature & ecology.  In particular, visitors can touch live octopus, sea urchins, starfish, sea cucumbers, crabs, and fish in the touch pool on the terrace. The museum also propagates rare coastal plants that remain in Kannonzaki Park, planting them in the museum garden, and conducts surveys of aquatic insects, amphibians, and other freshwater aquatic organisms on the Miura Peninsula.  Of note, collocated with the museum are a Visitor Center and a small restaurant called "Restore", which serves coffee, wine, and light meals.

Kannonzaki Nature Museum (Yokosuka, Kanagawa) – Access, Hours & Fees | Japan Aquariums

Exploring Japan: Quick trip from Yokosuka NB to Kannonzaki | Stripes Japan

Yokosuka Chuo Station --- "Y-Deck"

Yokosuka City is situated on the Miura Peninsula, with its west coast facing Sagami Bay (with views of Mouth Fuji) and its east coast facing Tokyo Bay.  The eastern part of Yokosuka is the most urbanized and crowded, as it is the location of a large harbor area, which has been used for many years by both the Japanese and U.S. navies.  Yokosuka's main commercial and entertainment district is located right outside the navy base/harbor area.  Yokosuka is also a transportation hub, with two railway lines that convey commuters up to Yokohama and Tokyo.  One of the train lines is called Keihin Kyuko and its main/busiest local station is "Yokosuka Chuo Eki" (横須賀中央駅).  Yokosuka Chuo Station was originally built in 1930, providing direct connecting rail service up to Yokohama.  Surrounding "Chuo Station" are all kinds of retail shops, restaurants, pubs, and other businesses.  A distinctive feature of the station is an open plaza area, and a raised large pedestrian bridge called: "Y-Deck".  The Y-Deck was built in the mid-1990s and is designed to resemble the sea and sails, in reference to Yokosuka being a port city.  The Y-Deck and plaza area outside of Yokosuka Chuo Station are used for festivals, musical/busker performances, blood collection drives, meet-up spots, politicians making speeches, etc., as well as the constant passage of thousands of people on their way to trains, buses, and taxis.  Also, a large conifer tree is located in the plaza, which is lit-up with decorative "illumination" lights during the year-end holiday season.

横須賀中央駅前広場

Tatara Beach

Tatarahama Beach｜A beautiful beach located in Tokyo bay - Nature Nippon

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Tatarahama Beach is one of the hidden beaches located on the Miura Peninsula in Kanagawa Prefecture.

The clean ocean of the Miura Peninsula is famous for the Sagami Bay side around Misaki Town, but it can also be enjoyed on the Tokyo Bay side.

The Kannonzaki area, where Tatara Beach is located, was off-limits to civilians from the Meiji era until the end of the war, leaving the area untouched by nature. Japan’s first Western-style lighthouse, the Kannonzaki Lighthouse, is also located here.

Tatara Beach is a popular spot, and is not so crowded even during the peak season, making it a relaxing place to spend time.

The beach is not a pure white sand beach because of the iron sand mixed in. There are rocky areas where snorkeling can be enjoyed.

The length of the beach is about 100 meters, and it is a small, shallow beach. Both sides are rocky. The Uraga side (at the back of the screen) seems to be easier to dive. There are sharp rocks, so snorkelers should wear gloves.

This is an ideal place for those who is looking for few people, rich nature but still no that far from the city.

Mamonzan Cemetery Monuments (1)

Previous article on Mamonzan (Navy) Cemetery

Discover Yokosuka 横須賀奥旨: 馬門山墓地　Mamonzan Cemetery　　 (deepyokosuka.blogspot.com)

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The Imperial Japanese Navy warship KAWACHI was Japan's first dreadnought battleship of 20,800 tons displacement, built at the Yokosuka Naval Arsenal in 1902. 

On July 12, 1918, she sank off the coast of Tokuyama, Yamaguchi Prefecture, due to an explosion in her powder magazine.  This was the year after the explosion and sinking of the battleship TSUKUBA. 

The monument was erected in February 1919, the following year, and was inscribed by Gita Masaki, who was the captain of the Kawachi at the time of the sinking and later became a Vice Admiral in the Navy.

Around the pedestal are inscribed the names and ranks of the missing among those who lost their lives.

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This monument is a memorial to the 152 lost crewmembers of the Imperial Japanese Navy warship TSUKUBA, which sank near Hakozaki in Yokosuka Naval Port on January 14, 1917.  The monument was erected in April 1919.

TSUKUBA was a cruiser battleship completed at the Kure Naval Arsenal in 1905, and was a large ship with 12-inch guns and a 13,750-ton displacement (Japan's first 10,000-ton class).  She sank due to an explosion in the powder magazine.

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Japan Imperial Navy "Special Mission Vessel" KANTO was originally a Russian naval vessel captured during the Russo-Japanese War. 

On December 9, 1924, she left Kure Military Port to transport supplies to Maizuru, but on December 12, due to a storm, she struck Futaguri Rock on the Nunaura coast of Fukui Prefecture, ran aground, and sank. 

It is said that 96 or 97 crewmembers were killed in the disaster.  Sixty-eight pillars are enshrined in this monument, which was erected in April 1925.

Regarding the KANTO disaster, a cenotaph has been erected in a memorail park in Kono Village, Nanjo-gun, Fukui Prefecture, where the ship was lost.  Additionally, a monument “Special Mission Vessel KANTO Distress Site” has been erected on the Nunaura Beach in the same village.  A “Monument for the Victims of the Special Mission Vessel KANTO” was also erected at the Maizuru Naval Cemetery.

The "Army Pier" in Uraga

Army Pier (Nishi-Uraga Harbor Green Space)

This wharf conveys a sense of history under the name of "Army Pier".  It is now a gathering place for fishing/anglers.

A commemorative marker reads as follows:

QUOTE

This coastline area is the maritime gateway to the port of Uraga and is an important spot in the history of the city.

The L-shaped wharf, commonly known as the "Army Pier", was built during the 1930s.

After the end of the Pacific War, hundreds of thousands of Japanese repatriates from the overseas areas landed at this pier, marking their first step back home.

This area was also the location of a ship guard station, a main office operating under the Uraga Magistrate's Office, which was established in 1721.  It was a checkpoint/ barrier where the crew and cargo of all ships entering and leaving Edo Bay were inspected.  Those inspections were conducted to stabilize the Edo economy, and also contributed to the prosperity of the port city of Uraga.

Note: This harbor green space was developed as part of an environmental improvement project by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism.

UNQUOTE

Tokugawa Shogun's Wise Use of Human Resources

国際化に見事に対応した、徳川家康の先見性とは？（渡邊大門） - エキスパート - Yahoo!ニュース

Modern society is extremely complex, and dealing with internationalization would be representative.  Companies that do business only in Japan face a difficult future, so they need to venture out into the world by hiring people who are fluent in languages and knowledgeable about global affairs.

Tokugawa Ieyasu responded to the international community by hiring a diverse range of human resources.  The key to this was William Adams, who was born in Gillingham, Kent, England in 1564.

In 1598, while in Holland, Adams sailed to Asia as a pilot on the Liefde, a fleet of ships dispatched to the Orient.

The fleet, consisting of five ships, broke up en route.  Fortunately, the Liefde, with Adams aboard, drifted ashore at Sashio (Usuki City, Oita Prefecture) in Bungo Usuki Bay on April 19, 1600.

The Nagasaki magistrate, however, was alarmed by them and took away their weapons and other property.  Later, Adams and others who had drifted ashore went to Osaka in place of the captain, who was unable to move, to explain the situation to Ieyasu.

Since the Jesuit missionaries had called for the execution of the English and Dutch, Ieyasu assumed that the Liefde was a pirate ship.

However, after hearing from Adams and others about the purpose of the voyage and the reasons for the conflict between Protestant and Catholic nations, he learned of their true intentions.  As a result, Adams and others were not executed.

Adams wished to return to Enghland, but Ieyasu would not allow it and took him into his custody.  Ieyasu gave Adams a stipend and employed him as an interpreter to negotiate with foreign envoys.

He also had his vassals teach navigation and mathematics, and used them as a kind of diplomatic advisor.  Later, Adams was ordered by Ieyasu to build Western-style sailing ships.

Adams was highly respected by Ieyasu and became a bannerman, receiving 250 koku of land in Hemi, Sagami (Yokosuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture), and the name Anjin Miura (三浦按針).

The surname “Miura” was associated with Miura County in Sagami Province, and “Anjin” meant pilot (navigator), which was Adams' occupation.  Adams married a Japanese woman, Oyuki (Maria), and they were blessed with a son and a daughter, Joseph and Susanna.

Adams promoted trade with the Netherlands, England and Japan.  He also expanded into Southeast Asia through the red seal trade, contributing greatly to Ieyasu's diplomacy.

Ieyasu's success was not based on race, but on his ability to recruit human resources to deal with the international community.  I am amazed at Ieyasu's foresight, which was not influenced by stereotypes.

Downtown Yokosuka's Suwa Shrine

横須賀 諏訪神社 (osuwasama.com)

Yokosuka Suwa Shrine's origin is stated in the shrine chronicle: “On March 12, 1573, during the reign of Emperor Shojamachi, the spirit of Suwa Myojin in Shinano Province was invoked.

According to records, the main hall and worship hall were rebuilt in August 1801, and the current shrine building was constructed in 1923.

In the past, the Company was located in Taki, Yokosuka Village, Miura County (present-day Shimomachi shopping district), rising out of the sea in the hills behind it, overlooking Edo Bay in the distance, with the constant echoing of waves.

In the Meiji era (1868-1912), with the establishment of the Yokosuka Military Port, the number of people moving into the area increased year after year, and the nearby mountain cliffs were cut down and reclaimed.

The existence of the shrine was threatened when the mountain cliff was cut down and reclaimed, but three benevolent persons donated their property, and the shrine was moved to its present location.

The name “Wakamatsu-cho” was derived from the name of the landfill construction work in this area, which was mainly carried out by Mr. Katsushichi Takahashi, whose shop name was Wakamatsu-ya.

In May of 1922, the shrine was upgraded to a village shrine, and in September of the same year, it was designated as a shrine to which the offering of offerings of sacred offering money should be made.

Since then, the shrine has been the core of the downtown commercial district, the center of Yokosuka City, and the shrine's annual festival in May and rooster market in November (an annual festival held at Owashi Shrine, a shrine on the premises) are widely known to the public as a downtown tradition.

Uraga's Role in Post-WWII Repatriation

「陸軍桟橋」と「浦賀港引揚記念の碑」海外引揚者が第一歩を踏みしめた港（浦賀） (senseki-kikou.net)

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The number of Japanese nationals (Japanese nationals) who were overseas when the war ended on August 15, 1945, totaled more than 6.6 million, including both military and civilian personnel. After the war, designated ports for repatriates in various parts of Japan accepted repatriates, with Uraga Port, located at the entrance to Tokyo Bay, receiving approximately 560,000 people in particular, second only to Maizuru Port, which received approximately 670,000.

At the end of the war, there were approximately 6.6 million people overseas: 3.08 million in the former Army, 450,000 in the former Navy, and 3 million in the General Corporation.

With the “General Order No. 1 to the Government of Japan” issued by GHQ (General Headquarters of the Allied Powers, General MacArthur) on September 2, 1945, all Japanese in the outer regions were to surrender under the control of their respective military districts, including military personnel, civilian personnel, and civilians.

The Yokosuka Regional Demobilization Bureau of the Repatriation and Relief Agency of the Ministry of Health and Welfare was in charge of demobilization operations in Iwate, Miyagi, Fukushima, Ibaraki, Chiba, Tochigi, Gunma, Saitama, Tokyo, Kanagawa, Yamanashi, Shizuoka and Nagano prefectures.

The “Hikawa Maru” and “Soya,” which are still preserved today, are also active as demobilized ships under the jurisdiction of the Yokosuka District Demobilization Bureau.

The “Uraga Repatriation Relief Bureau” was in charge of relief and quarantine operations for repatriates from November 1945 to May 1947. From May 1947, the “Repatriation Relief Agency Yokohama Relief Station” (renamed the Repatriation Relief Agency Relief Bureau Yokohama Relief Station in 1947) was established. The Repatriation Agency was abolished on July 11, 1955, and its operations were taken over by the “Yokohama Quarantine Station.

On March 29, 1946, cholera broke out on board a repatriation ship from Canton, China, and the ship arrived at the port of Uraga on April 5, 1946, with the outbreak spreading. The ship arrived at the port of Uraga on April 5, and was quarantined at sea.

The Uraga Repatriation and Relief Bureau establishes a “Cholera Quarantine Headquarters” and continues quarantine of repatriated vessels coming from China and Vietnam. 20 vessels anchor offshore for quarantine, and the number of quarantined patients reaches 70,000. Although there was a shortage of food and drinking water for patients and others, facilities and sanitary materials were rapidly improved, and by May 4 of the same year, the quarantined people on the anchored vessels were able to come ashore.

The number of contaminated ships in Uraga Port numbered 22, with 483 patients (including 72 deaths), 191 carriers, and 345 pseudo-patients.

The Uraga Quarantine Station of the Uraga Repatriation and Relief Bureau utilized the site of the former Navy Anti-Submarine School.

Luke Skywalker Went to High School in Yokosuka

From the archives, 1978: 'Star Wars' star Mark Hamill visits Yokosuka alma mater | Stars and Stripes

This article first appeared in the Stars and Stripes Pacific edition, June 19, 1978. It is republished unedited in its original form. 

YOKOSUKA NB, Japan — Mark Hamill, a shooting star success in the futuristic fantasy film, "Star Wars," rode a helicopter instead of a space vehicle Friday and flew straight into the nostalgic past. Hamill was picked up by a Navy chopper in Tokyo and landed near Nile C. Kinnick High School at Yokosuka NB, where he was hailed by Principal Douglas M. Spaulding as the school's most distinguished graduate. Less than a decade after picking up his diploma at Kinnick, Hamill is better known worldwide as Luke Skywalker, the intrepid hero who turns back intergalactic invaders in a film as successful as the 26-year-old actor himself.

That, Hamill said as he toured his alma mater and a Navy destroyer, was just part of the story. Spending his high school years in Yokohama, where his father was Navy Exchange officer, Hamill told of leaving Kinnick in 1969 and heading for Los Angeles, where he started on the bottom rung of show business and slowly fought his way up. All during his last student years, Hamill related, he had secretly aspired to an acting career and did his best to background himself. He took parts in several school plays, worked in the audio-visual department and was a member of the drama club. He also picked up poise and confidence as president of the student council during his senior year. King for a day at Yokosuka, Hamill was modest and quiet-spoken about it all, dwelling on the lean, slow years instead of his sudden success.

"I became a professional interviewee and auditioner," Hamill said, relating that it took 130 interviews before he landed his first part — a two-line bit on Bill Cosby's show. There were 73 more roles, little more than flashing vignettes, before he landed the big one in the film that has grossed $216 million and surpassed "Jaws" as the most successful movie in history. Hamill returned to Japan on a kind of business trip — a publicity junket for the July 1 opening of "Star Wars" in Tokyo and Osaka. But he wasn't above a sentimental detour to his old campus, where he shook hands, signed autographs and recalled some happy — sometimes mischievous — days at Kinnick.

At an assembly in the Teen Club, Hamill told how he and several other seniors violated a curfew on prom night and wound up in Shore Patrol headquarters — in tuxedos and formals. He had once tried out as a lifeguard, but Special Services thought a youngster only 5-foot-7 would be miscast. But they let him sit at the edge of the yacht basin and dive in after anybody who fell overboard.

Hamill called himself "a plain Joe whose main hobby was girl hounding." While he kissed 18-year-old Melanie Shriver, a Kinnick graduate of a few weeks ago, Hamill showed no signs of backsliding into his old ways. He was traveling with his girlfriend, Marilou York, who kept a hawkish eye on him all the way. Hamill also toured the destroyer Hammond, patiently scrawling his signature many times for a mob of adoring kids — some of whom wore "Star Wars" T-shirts. All the while, he appeared to be taking sudden fame in stride — definitely not one of the affected performers who is "on" all the time. But he did confide that this appearance was a bit too public. "One day soon," he said, "I'm going to don dark glasses and slip in here unnoticed to visit my old home." But that likely won't be soon. Hamill was to leave Monday for Ireland where he'll co-star with Lee Marvin in a war film, "The Big Red One." And, he told youngsters at the assembly, there will be a sequel to "Star Wars."

All About Sukajan

“Sukajan”: Yokosuka and the Roots of Japan’s Dazzling Bomber Jackets | Nippon.com

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Intricately embroidered silk bomber jackets first appeared in Yokosuka in the postwar years and quickly gained popularity as souvenirs among US servicemen stationed in the area. Blending Japanese artistry and American fashion, sukajan continue to win fans at home and abroad. We visited Dobuita Street, the birthplace of the iconic jackets.

Yokosuka Original

Emblazoned with intricately embroidered images of fierce tigers, glowering hawks, smoldering dragons, and myriad other creatures, Japan’s iconic satin bomber jackets are eye-catching items. Known as sukajan, their distinct designs—an amalgam of Japanese and American fashion—have garnered generations of loyal fans and inspired versions by the likes of Louis Vuitton and Gucci.

Sukajan have evolved to become their own fashion genre, but their roots can be traced back to a shopping arcade in the Honchō district of Yokosuka in Kanagawa Prefecture. It was along Dobuita Street, which sits at the doorstep of a major US naval base, that “Yokosuka jumpers”—later shortened to sukajan—first appeared in the early postwar period.

During the prewar period, Yokosuka, which is located on the shores of Tokyo Bay just south of Yokohama, housed shipyards and other facilities vital to the Imperial Japanese Navy. After World War II, the Allied Forces took control of the site, and today it is home to several important US Navy installations. In the postwar years, the US military presence attracted an array of businesses, from tailors to souvenir stands to restaurants, that set up shop along a 300-meter stretch just off the main highway, transforming it into a thriving shopping arcade.

Amid this bustling commercial atmosphere, jackets by local tailors decorated with ornately embroidered pictures caught the eyes of US military personnel stationed in Yokosuka. “Sailors and soldiers would take them home as souvenirs of Japan,” explains Hitomoto Kazuyoshi, proprietor of the sukajan specialty shop Mikasa, which first opened its doors on Dobuita Street in 1950.

Hitomoto together with jacket designer Yokochi Hiromichi founded the Dobuita-dōri Sukajan Club, a local group dedicated to preserving the history of the jackets. Over the years the pair have collected vintage sukajan and embroidered items from around Japan and overseas, displaying part of their collection at the shopping arcade’s information center.

Exotic Embroidery

Hitomoto explains that almost from the start of the US occupation, soldiers and sailors eagerly sought out traditional Japanese designs to personalize jackets and other items. “It was popular at first to sew on embroidered badges,” he says. “As the fad picked up steam, people began ordering customized jackets boasting intricately stitched designs.” Popular motifs included Japanese-styled tigers and dragons along with American symbols like the Stars and Stripes and bald eagles. Recognizing the business opportunity, local entrepreneurs started offering jackets geared toward the GI clientele at souvenir shops.

Yokochi has a number of these vintage jackets in his collection that he says illustrate the imagination and expertise of the designers. One from 1949 features a motif incorporating Mount Fuji, the US flag, and bald eagles. “The customer likely asked for a simple design that included Mount Fuji and a bald eagle,” he explains. “But the maker took creative license and produced something amazing.” Yokochi notes that there are examples of embroidered souvenir jackets from other countries, but that Japan’s sukajan stood out for their quality and designs.

Early makers of sukajan took to using yokofuri embroidery, a traditional technique employed to stitch intricate patterns into kimono and sashes. Using specially built sewing machines with leg and foot levers to control sewing speed and the width of stitches, they moved the fabric under the needle to effectively “draw” the pictures with thread, producing images with depth and detail that American soldiers found irresistible.

Many well-known artisans skilled in the yokofuri embroidery plied their trade on Dobuita Street—one such veteran, Matsuzaka Ryōichi, still runs the order-made sukajan store First Shop, although he is now in his nineties. However, Hitomoto notes that most were located in Kiryū to the north in Gunma Prefecture, a town with a long history of producing high-quality textiles. Kiryū became a major producer of embroidered jackets in the 1950s, and today continues to make limited-production, high-end items.

Along with their eye-catching designs, sukajan drew fans for their use of silky, satin-weave materials made from semi-synthetic fibers like rayon and acetate, which were readily available in Japan. Sukajan were similar in design to American bomber and varsity jackets. But while these were typically made from wool or leather, sukajan presented glossy sheens, which Yokochi suggests appealed to American servicemen’s liking for silk. “Japanese silk items were popular souvenirs,” he explains, “so it makes sense that they found the satin sheen of sukajan similarly alluring.”

Some sources even suggest that early jackets utilized silk salvaged from surplus US military parachutes, but the chaotic environment that dominated the immediate postwar period makes this claim hard to verify. While there might be a kernel of truth to the story, it is more likely a tale that early vendors concocted as part of their sales pitch to customers.

From Souvenir to Fashion Statement

From the 1960s, sukajan steadily infiltrated the Japanese fashion scene, particularly among Japanese youth influenced by American trends in clothing. The jackets came to be associated with the rough-and-tumble crowd in part through Imamura Shōhei’s 1961 film Buta to gunkan (Pigs and Battleships), which is set in Dobuita Street and features a young gangster sporting a sukajan. This rebellious image deepened when several well-known rock bands of the day took to wearing the jackets.

Hitomoto says that around this time, his shop Mikasa switched from selling souvenirs to US servicemen to catering mainly to Japanese clients. Today the store boasts a clientele spanning all ages and nationalities. Yokochi explains that the once rebellious image of sukajan has faded over time, and that today people from all walks of life have embraced the jackets purely from a fashion standpoint.

While sukajan are enjoying greater interest than ever, Hitomoto and Yokochi are concerned that Dobuita Street’s connection to the jackets is in peril of being lost in the buzz. Sukajan emblazed with “Japan” and “Yokosuka” were once common sights, but shoppers today can browse a multitude of designs online that give no hint to the origins and history behind the garments. When major fashion brands started coming out with their own lines, the pair knew that something had to be done.

Local retailers have joined forces with city officials to promote Yokosuka and Dobuita Street as the birthplace of sukajan. Their efforts have won support of fans, many of whom now only purchase authentic Yokosuka jackets.

Along with initiatives like collecting and displaying vintage items, Hitomoto and Yokochi are tapping into technology with the aim of building a lasting legacy for sukajan. The duo are considering making one-of-a-kind jackets that incorporate NFTs (non-fungible tokens), unique cryptographic tokens based on blockchain technology. The “NFT sukajan” represents a combination of real-world jackets and virtual design.

Together with local retailers and fans, the pair are committed to preserving the history of Dobuita Street and sukajan for future generations.

3 Reasons to Visit Yokosuka

Yokosuka: Features, Popular Tourist Attractions, Gourmet (japan-travel-note.com)

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Yokosuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture is a city located on the Miura Peninsula in the southeastern part of Kanagawa Prefecture. It is the birthplace of Japan’s modern navy and is still home to the main base of the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force. It is easily accessible, about an hour by train from Tokyo, and is a popular spot for day trips.

There are three main attractions for sightseeing in Yokosuka.

The first is that you can experience the history and culture of Japan’s modern navy. Yokosuka has many spots where you can feel the history of the former Japanese Navy, such as Mikasa Park, where the battleship Mikasa that was active in the Battle of Japan Sea is on display, and Kannonzaki Lighthouse, Japan’s oldest Western-style lighthouse. There are also tours that allow you to see Maritime Self-Defense Force ships and aircraft up close, allowing you to experience the latest technology while enjoying the impressiveness of these vessels.

Second, you can enjoy the beautiful nature. In Yokosuka, you can enjoy the coastline facing Tokyo Bay and the rich nature of the Miura Peninsula. Sarushima is an uninhabited island floating in Tokyo Bay. The ruins of former army and navy forts that have been incorporated into nature are a sight to behold. In addition, Akiya’s Tateishi Coast is a scenic spot with Mt. Fuji and huge rocks.

The third is gourmet. Yokosuka is home to a naval base, so Western food culture has taken root there. Yokosuka Navy Burger is a hamburger that originated in Yokosuka and is popular for its filling and filling taste. Yokosuka Navy Curry is also famous. Yokosuka is a city that has lived together with the navy and has been a place with ties to the navy. It is said that the origins of curry and rice becoming popular in households can be traced back to the former Japanese Navy. Each restaurant in Yokosuka sells its original Yokosuka Navy Curry, and we recommend eating it while walking around.

Near the U.S. Navy Yokosuka Base is Dobuita Street, a shopping street with a unique atmosphere that fuses American and Japanese culture, and is home to a variety of shops, including military shops, American goods stores, and Sukajan specialty stores. It is connected. There are many restaurants and bars with an American atmosphere, so you can fully enjoy the exotic atmosphere.

Yokosuka Museum of Art

Through a Quality Based Selection in 2002, which was the first trial run by the city of Yokosuka as a Japanese municipality, we were chosen to plan a museum. The design started from scratch, and was developed through discussions with many people, including museum curators, for over 2 years.

Facing the sea to the north and surrounded by mountains, the site has the valley topography typical of Yokosuka. We buried most of the architectural volume in the ground to create a museum in communication with the natural landscape. The interior space is planned as nested boxes: the edge part is for open public facilities such as restaurants and workshop rooms; the central part is for sensitive facilities for exhibition and collection. This system solves the severe environmental problems associated with the seaside site.

The double skin of roof and wall, consisting of glass plate outside and iron board inside, covers the area for exhibition and collection, and is a system to control sunlight. Walking around the interior space overlaid with this huge double skin, visitors can experience not only the exhibition itself but also the various activities connected with art.

Riken Yamamoto Official web (riken-yamamoto.co.jp)

Portable Shrine Carried By Foreigners

DVIDS - News - CFAY Joins in Celebrating the Return of the Yokosuka Mikoshi Parade (dvidshub.net)

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(29 October 2023)

Downtown Yokosuka came alive with tradition and jubilation on Sunday, October 29, as the 44th Yokosuka Mikoshi Parade made its long-awaited return to Chuo Odori, also known as Blue Street. Among the participants was the mikoshi from Commander, Fleet Activities Yokosuka (CFAY), marking a significant presence in this time-honored event.

This year’s parade was particularly special, not only for its storied history but also because the beloved event had been on hiatus for four years. The streets buzzed with excitement as thousands of local community members and visitors converged to witness the spectacle.

Volunteers from CFAY proudly took their place alongside 43 other teams in the parade. While some teams hoisted ornate mikoshi on their shoulders, others showcased their talents, playing taiko drums and other traditional Japanese musical instruments. The synchronized beats of the drums, combined with the sights of the mikoshi, created an atmosphere that was both electric and nostalgic.

Dmitry Kaminsky, a volunteer who helped hoist the CFAY mikoshi, said the experience was unforgettable. “It was such an amazing experience for me to participate in while in Japan, and one I will not forget. Coming together from different commands and building a team while also being part of the larger group of mikoshi teams allowed us to further build the community amongst all of us in Yokosuka. It was a huge honor to participate in a tradition that honors and celebrates Japanese culture. I definitely look forward to participating in future joint celebrations here in Japan.”

Mikoshi parades have deep roots in Japanese culture, traditionally believed to transport deities between shrines during religious festivals. Parading the mikoshi is both a form of entertainment and a sacred ritual, signifying the sharing of divine blessings with the community. For Yokosuka, this parade has also been a symbol of unity and cultural exchange, especially with the presence of CFAY and other international participants.

For CFAY, participating in the parade was not just about representing the U.S. Navy but also about strengthening the bond between the U.S. military and the Japanese community.

Events like these underscore the mutual respect and friendship fostered over the years.

“Participating in this parade is very important to our bilateral relationship between CFAY and the City of Yokosuka,” Kaminsky said. “It highlights our friendship between the two and signifies that we are all together as one team, participating in traditions together and making history together.”

The parade’s four-year absence made this year’s event all the more sentimental. Past participants and first-timers alike felt the weight of the occasion and the sense of community spirit needed to ensure a parade like this was successful.

“It was not possible to hold the event for three years due to the COVID-19 pandemic, so organizations that carry the local mikoshi were looking forward to this parade being held for the first time in four years,” said Yuji Yasuda of the Yokosuka Tourism Association. “We were able to hold the event successfully because of everyone’s cooperation.”

Mikoshi parades are also regional and sometimes national tourist attractions, where local neighborhoods, groups, and organizations can display their pride and spirit for all to see.

While Yokosuka City is already a popular tourist location, the parade is the perfect opportunity to visit and see the city up close.

“Recently, the number of visitors to Yokosuka City for sightseeing from other areas has been increasing,” Yosuda said. “The Yokosuka Mikoshi Parade, while held as a local community event, also turns out to be a great tourist attraction.”

An estimated 40,000 community members, visitors, and tourists passed through Blue Street during the celebration. As the celebration drew to a close, the sounds of taiko drums faded, and the mikoshi were returned to their resting places.

Still, the memories of the 44th Yokosuka Mikoshi Parade will remain. For many, it was a day of reconnection — with tradition, community, and each other.

For members of the CFAY community, the parade is an annual tradition that they circle on their calendars that will continue to bring joy, cultural exchange, and a shared community spirit to the streets of Yokosuka for many years to come, reaffirming the ties that bind them together.

For more than 75 years, CFAY has provided, maintained, and operated base facilities and services in support of the U.S. 7th Fleet’s forward-deployed naval forces, tenant commands, and thousands of military and civilian personnel and their families.